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Hair forms in a pouch-like structure below the skin called a hair
follicle. What we see as hair is actually the hair shaft, which is
the keratinized, hardened tissue that grows from this follicle.
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Humans have more hair follicles per square inch of skin than most higher primates,
including chimpanzees and gorillas. Because most of this hair is fine and pale
(called vellus hair), it usually isn't visible to the naked eye. Consider
this: the forehead has more hair follicles than any other part of the body. The
thicker, fully pigmented hair most people consider "real hair" is called terminal hair. This hair is found on scalp, eyebrows, legs, backs, underarms, and genital areas.
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Everyone's hair grows differently, depending on age, weight, metabolism, hormones, ethnicity, medications, and other factors. But all hair goes through three distinct growth phases:

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- Active growth phase (called the anagen phase), which lasts up to several years. At any given time, the majority (85%) of our body hair is in this phase. During anagen, the hair has an abundance of melanin.
- Regressive phase (catagen phase), which lasts about two weeks, during which the hair stops growing but is not yet shed. About 3 - 4% of our body hair is in this phase at any given time.
- Resting phase (telogen phase), which lasts 5 - 6 weeks, at the end of which the hair falls out and a new hair begins to form. Approximately 10-13% of our body hair is in this phase at any one time
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Okay, so now that we know a little more about why hair grows, what can we do about it? Fortunately, or unfortunately, there are many different kinds of hair removal products available. This is good because what works for one person may not work for another. Differences in need (areas needing to be treated), patience, pain tolerance, and of course cost, all combine to determine the best solution for each person at
different times of their life. Of course, this can also lead to confusion when trying to decide which solution is right for you.
So what is the right hair removal method for you? In this section we explain and discuss the pros and cons of a variety of hair removal procedures:
Professional Electrolysis
Home Electrolysis
Laser
Flashlamp
Depilatories
Hair Inhibitors
Epilators
Shaving
Waxing
Tweezers
| Professional Electrolysis |
Electrolysis is the destruction of hair roots with an electric current. There are three types available: Galvanic (DC current), Thermolysis (AC current), and Blended (AC/DC current). In all types, very fine metal probes are inserted into the hair follicle. A small electric current is then applied which destroys the hair root. Each hair has to be treated individually.
Done professionally, cost is usually prescribed by the hour. Typical quotes may be $25-$100+ per hour; therefore this can be a very expensive procedure. Average durations across the USA and Canada are:
- Upper Lip, 4-10 hours
- Chin, 2-12 hours
- Sideburns, 4-8 hours
- Eyebrows, 3-8 hours
- Underarms, 4-12 hours
- Arms, 5-10 hours
- Bikini line, 8-16 hours
Undeniably, this is a painful procedure. Descriptions range from "similar to tweezers" to "unbearable". A qualified electrologist can suggest methods for minimizing the discomfort. Although painful, a qualified electrologist can ensure the tissue surrounding the hair follicle is not damaged; therefore this is a safe procedure when performed responsibly. Temporary side effects can include redness,
swelling, dryness, and scabs.
Electrolysis results are viewed as permanent. Once the hair root is destroyed, the hair will not grow back. However, if the root is not completely destroyed, the hair can regrow; therefore clients typically need to return for 1 or 2 more sessions before the job is complete. Applying a hair inhibitor after electrolysis treatment can prevent the hair from regrowing.
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| Home Electrolysis |
Home electrolysis typically involves a small device with a stylet that resembles a mechanical pencil. One end has a retractable probe (like those found on a professional electrolysis machine), and the other end is connected by cord to either a battery-powered or "plugged in" device. there is a metal band around the stylet at the place where you hold it like a pencil during the treatment. The probe is on a
spring so you can't insert it too deeply and puncture the skin. When the probe touches the moisture of the papilla, the circuit is completed and the unit makes a 3-5 second tone. You hold the probe in place for another 10-15 seconds and try to remove the hair with a good pair of tweezers. If it doesn't come out, you try again, but never more than twice in one sitting. Some units have an adjustable "comfort control" for low or high power.
At prices less than $200, clearly the main advantage to home electrolysis is the cost savings. There are other benefits as well;
- You can do it in the privacy of your own home
- You can perform the procedure when it's convenient for you
- You may not have a qualified electrologist in your area
However, there are some significant disadvantages as well:
- It is a very slow process (refer to the average times above)
- It is still a painful procedure
- When first starting out, it is easy to get frustrated and give up
- You may not get permanent results if you don't follow the directions exactly
- Side effects such as redness and swelling may be worse than if done professionally
- Some areas are difficult to treat by yourself, since each hair must be handled individually
- The more hair you have, the greater chance you'll give up
Because of these disadvantages, most successful home electrolysis patients combine this method with another (such as hair inhibitors and depilatories).
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| Laser |
Laser systems emit a gentle beam of light that passes through the skin to the hair follicle. When the hair absorbs it, the energy from the laser is transformed into heat and the hair follicle is disabled.
While electrolysis can be a tedious & painful process, destroying one hair follicle at a time, lasers on the other hand can treat hundreds of hair follicles simultaneously so the process is much quicker.
Because of the nature of lasers, dark hair on light skin works best with this procedure. Dark hair contains melanin, a dark pigment which attracts laser light so more laser energy is absorbed. Light colored hair is more difficult to treat, with blonde and red hair being the worst. These hair types can require multiple sessions with varied results. Persons with dark skin can even suffer burns if proper expertise
is not given.
Treatments are much faster than with electrolysis. Following are some estimated ranges:
- Back, 1-3 hours
- Shoulders, 10-20 minutes
- Underarms, 1-2 minutes
- Bikini Line, 8-10 minutes
- Upper lip, less than 1 minute
- Chin, 2-3 minutes
- Legs, 1-3 hours
At least 2 to 3 treatments are usually necessary, and hair that has been waxed or removed with tweezers could need from 5 to 10 treatments.
Although not truly a permanent hair removal solution, Laser hair removal is longer-lasting than the temporary solutions described here.
All laser hair removal treatments must be done professionally by qualified individuals. Treatments can range in cost from $400-$600 per session, with 3 or 4 sessions being typical.
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| Flashlamp |
This relatively new procedure is very similar to laser hair removal. It runs by different names, such as IPL (Intense Pulsed Light), ILS (Intense Light Source), Full Spectrum, Non-Coherent, and Broadband light. The primary differences between flashlamps and lasers in terms of hair removal are
- Kind of light. Flashlamps do not use a wavelength of light the way a laser does.
- Size and shape of the light beam. Most flashlamps emit a wider beam than lasers.
There is limited clinical data for flashlamps, and even less long-term follow-up studies. Published, comparable data suggest similarities between flashlamps and laser treatment in terms of effectiveness and side effects.
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| Depilatories |
A depilatory is typically a liquid or cream that is used to remove unwanted hair from the body. the word depilatory, pronounced "di-pila-toree", literally means "to deprive of hair".
Depilatories remove hair on the skin's surface. They typically contain chemicals with a high degree of acidity (low pH) such as sodium thioglycolate or calcium thioglycolate. They break down the protein structure of hair. Depending on the coarseness of the hair, it is usually dissolved into a gloopy mass within 5-10 minutes, which can then be wiped or washed away.
Depilatories also act as an exfolient, which means it removes dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. These dead skin cells accumulate every day and often feel rough; after removal, the skin feels much softer and smoother. Many depilatories contain moisturizers such as baby oil, almond oil, green tea extract, and aole, which contribute to softer, smoother skin.
Depilatories are almost universally pain-free, quick, and easy to apply. The length of effectiveness ranges between individuals but typically runs from a few days to 3-4 weeks for the best products.
When choosing a depilatory, it is important to find one that minimizes allergic skin reaction to the ingredients and chemicals involved. The best depilatories work for a wide range of people, minimizing the corrosiveness while maximizing the effectiveness.
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| Hair Inhibitors |
Hair Inhibitors work to prevent the regrowth of hair. They have been developed to supplement other hair removal solutions. They work particularly well with epilators, waxing, tweezing, and shaving.
Hair inhibitors are typically clear, odorless, and topical solutions made from a mixture of plant enzymes. They are completely natural and gentle on the skin. They work by mimicking the process that causes baldness. By changing the structure of the hair follicle, the hair gradually becomes finer and softer, until it finally disappears.
Hair inhibitors work best when applied to the skin after using another hair removal method such as epilators or waxing. The solution is rubbed or sprayed onto the skin so it penetrates the pores and reaches the hair follicle. They can be used all over the body.
You will usually find hair growth slowing after 3-5 weeks of treatments. Results are sometimes very significant. Continued use will keep the hair from growing back; in many cases the effect is permanent.
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| Epilators |
Epilators are similar to electric razors, except that instead of a cutting blade they have tweezing discs, which rotate picking up the hair and tweezing them from the root. Many are contoured in such a way as to glide easily over all parts of the body.
Epilators are typically most effective on large, flat areas like arms and legs. They are least effective around the underarms, and are not recommended for the facial area.
Epilators are generally very effective. Hair usually does not reappear for 4-8 weeks after use. Although more expensive than tweezers, they are equally as effective and much faster. Tweezing can be a very painstaking process.
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| Shaving |
Shaving removes the tapered tip of a hair. Cutting this tip off leaves the growing hairs feeling bristly. As the sharpened hair tip continues to grow, there is a risk of ingrown hair if it penetrates the skin surrounding the follicle. Inflammation and irritation can result.
On the plus side, shaving is quick and, at least initially, inexpensive. On the downside, hair stubble reappears quickly (immediately if shaving is not done properly). Since a sharp blade is being used, there is a risk of nicks and cuts to the skin, resulting in bleeding. Skin irritation can occur if a shaver is used repeatedly over the same area or if it is not kept clean. Ingrown hairs can also occur if the
blade is not kept sharp.
Shaving in the same direction as the hair growth is the most comfortable, while shaving against the hair growth can give a much closer shave. Many people use a combination of these methods. Dermatologists however warn that shaving against the hair growth can cause ingrown hairs and increased irritation, making the skin sore and sensitive.
Another potential side effect is razor bumps. This is where hair curls around after being cut, and enters the skin at another place. The sharpened hair penetrates the skin, causing irritation, inflammation, skin eruption, and pain. As the hair continues to grow deeper into the skin, scar tissue can develop around the area. This effect is known as "razor bumps".
Costs can add up, too. Although the price of an individual razor is very small, a new one must be used every few days. Because of this shaving can become one of the most expensive hair removal solutions available.
Blade duration can vary between individuals, based on the thickness or coarseness of the hair. It typically needs to be changed after every 3-7 uses.
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| Waxing |
Waxing is performed by first spreading a thin gel-like substance of the skin. Typically a cloth strip is pressed on the top and then ripped off with a quick movement, removing the was along with the hair and dead skin cells. This leaves the skin tender but smooth.
Hot waxes melt just above body temperature, so they can easily be spread over the skin. As they harden, they trap the hair in the wax so it is removed by the roots when the wax is ripped off. Cold waxes come in precoated strips which can be pressed directly onto the skin. the hair sticks to the wax and is then removed with a quick pull-back action. Cold waxing is also known as Persian waxing.
This ripping action causes the skin to sting. As dead skin cells are removed, the skin feels very tender and smooth afterwards. Many people find a soothing skin healing cream to be helpful afterwards. Some individual's skin reacts to waxing with redness and bumps. These typically disappear after a few hours.
Waxing is not recommended for persons suffering from diabetes, or who have varicose veins or poor circulation, as they are more susceptible to infection. Users of acne medications are also not recommended to use waxing on the face, as these medications weaken the skin and could contribute to skin tearing when the wax is removed.
Waxing should also not be done on areas affected by warts, pimples, moles, or rashes; or on skin that is irritated, chapped, or suffering from sunburn. It should never be applied to peeling, broken skin, varicose veins, the nipple areas, male genitals, inside the ears and nose, and eyelashes.
Due to the ripping nature of the hair removal, waxing can be quite painful. Similar to ripping off a band-aid, only much worse. Hair usually appears again after 2-4 weeks.
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| Tweezers |
Tweezing involves gripping the hair with a pair of tweezers and pulling the hair out. The best method is the stretch the skin slightly, grip the hair close to the root, and pull gently, firmly, and evenly. Yanking the hair out may cause it to break off, thus increasing the risk of an ingrown hair.
A good quality pair of tweezers are essential when performing this method of hair removal. Do not skimp on price. Make sure the two tips of the tweezers meet and form a good grip on the hair.
Many find that tweezing after a bath or shower is easier when the skin is warm. To reduce redness, you can rub an ice cube over the area after tweezing to reduce redness and soreness.
Tweezing is a fine solution for stray eyebrow hairs, scattered hairs around the abdomen, stray hairs on the nipples, and chin hairs.
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